Letter - to David's mother Mary - 'Himalaya' - 7.11.1970

At Sea, one day into Suva. Friday 6th November 1970

Hello Mum, Dad, Andrew and Doodie,

   I guess this is my last letter to you for some time - happily the need will cease a week from today, and we're looking forward hugely to the big event.

  High on our minds today is the shopping spree on duty free bits in Suva - a good tape recorder, an adding machine ordered by Pen's Mum (we owe her $40 on account of duty paid on Tabitha), a camera for a Phelan cousin, maybe a set of field glasses if reasonably $'d.  We should have suggested a lot earlier that you tell us if you wanted something, a little transistor or whatever.  But we've tried to pick up a little goodie for each family member somewhere along our route.  Also picked up duty free grog (liqueurs) on board, all helps to moisten the coming revels.

  The ship is O.K.  - very full, mainly with very oldies - apparently all from Redfern and Newtown or England, but a few Canadians got on in Vancouver so we have made some good friends amongst them.

  We cannot get a cabin to ourselves - at times it's even hard to find two seats in the lounge, but it's wonderful outdoors weather, and deck tennis/pool etc.  activities are A1!  So expect to see us in the pink of condition - Pen somewhat weightier than before  (she told me to say that).  We have a superb table waiter, who must be the most attentive ever, and a good cabin steward.  My German cabin mate and I carry on desultory conversations in German, while Pennie's (also German, (speaks English) does nothing but sleep.

    From Pennie - Yesterday we crossed the Equator, there was a special ceremony, people were splatted with red and green muck and thrown into the pool with Dead Fish!  Thank goodness they emptied and cleaned the pool later.  I've been walking two miles a day lately, six times around 'A' Deck makes a mile.  In less that a week we will see you.

   Love Pennie and David xx

Letters home to Australia - David to his mother - 14-10-2012

Carmel, October 14th 1970.

Dear Mum,

Two of yours to answer, one September 8th and 9th.  Our trip was superb, car did well, is now sold for $220, which I propose to splurge on a good tape recorder in Fiji.  We already have a load of duty free 'orders', from Mrs Rodd for an adding machine and from a Phelan cousin for a camera.  Send your orders now, if any, and we'll see what we can squeeze into the framework of our Customs allowances.

What a terrible succession of deaths, accidents and hospitalizations - we feel we should come home to mourn, and not celebrate.  Or course we look forward beyond words to our entry into Sydney Harbour and to huge reunions - I loved the photos you sent, particularly the colour one of you all at 'Down Under' - I would never have known what to expect, honestly, only you haven't changed greatly, Mum.

Mrs Rodd has arranged her 'do' for November 21st, she intended two, a 'family and oldies', and a 'youngsters' to follow on the 28th, but we wrote to suggest just one, as hardly any of our friends are now in Sydney, nor perhaps even able to make it there.  So I leave it to you to arrange what you would like best - I guess just family and good friends, both yours and ours, as you feel appropriate.  Of course I shall have to begin my Controls Co. job, eventually, maybe I can save it till after the Christmas shutdown.

As for accommodation, we've recently begun to give a lot of thought to an idea Pennie remembered you suggesting (years ago, i.e. before she left), that of building the upper floor of 5 Calvert Parade into a Self Contained flat.  I would be fully able and ready to do all myself (i.e. cooking, toilet, washing etc. facility installation, plus some redecorating, partitioning etc.) in exchange for our being able to live in at a nominal rental, until such time as our future plans become clear.

We have ideas of going to W.A., to the iron ore mining area, to work up a big of capital, whilst living there in the subsidised family accommodation that the companies provide.

Before trying any of this, and just after we arrive it would be nice to spend some time in Canberra (i.e. during November / December this year), to give Tabitha Taxi a good long run up there, to clear her cobwebs a bit, and simply to say hello to Canberra in general.

The news of Dudu is shattering to say the least, I really do find it hard to believe how much she must have aged in the three short years since I saw her.  We only hope the same thought doesn't upset her and that we can provide some uplift in her morale.  Not too faint a hope, I trust.

No news still of our U.S.S.R. pictures, the Post Office says to regard them as lost, which is a chilling blow, but that's life I guess, however we now have actual tickets from P&O, thanks largely to the magnificent efforts of Don Joy, Aileen Drury's travel agent, for 'Himalaya' arrive Sydney, November 13th, 8am, via Vancouver, Honolulu, Suva and Auckland - how nice to see them all again, although we've barely left Vancouver where we looked up our ex-Dubrovnik friends the Charlesworth's.

Had an unusual day here today, sat in on a Chemistry lecture at Monterey Peninsula College, with Doug Meyrose, with whom, and his wife Sandra we've been great pals during our stay.  Quite an insight into U.S. Education methods.

Quite a gang, 10 to 12, will be sending us off from San Francisco, we've collected a stack of visitor passes to enable this.

Keith and Virginia are bowing out, they are leaving it up to the 'youngsters'. which works our well, they don't like the big city etc.

Much love, David.

Letter - to David's Mother - Carmel, California - 5.8.1970

                                                                                                                             Carmel.
                                                                                                                                  5-8.1970
Dear Mum,

     Oh dear what a debacle, it seems the International Date Line beat us, as Tuesday, 10:30am your end is Monday 6pm this end *  - so we were out seeing some friends at Pacific Grove.  I blame myself, for not checking closely, and blandly assuring you Tuesday 10:30am Aust. =  Tuesday 6pm Carmel.  But it doesn't, so;        However I hope Keith was communicative - he later seemed pleased to have had the chat.  (He is as undemonstrative as any Amphlett, very like Colin (Keith's younger brother) as I remember him, in manner, if not in interests.) 

     While we socialized in Pacific Grove that night, the E A R T H    T R E M O R   hit us ---  I thought at first it was just a truck passing, then as it increased I had visions of the truck trying to get through the walls of the house (wooden), then things started falling, we bounced up and down, the cat screamed and rushed outside, then in about 10 seconds, it was all over.  Everybody came out of their houses, to see if anything has collapsed I guess, swapped notes briefly and that was it.  Pennie didn't like it one bit, I found it rather exhilarating, real Luna Park stuff! **

     Thanks for your many enclosures - Canberra Times cuttings, rowing notes and Brussels letter; therein lies a tale, you said in your latest typed letter that the tram roll arrived ages ago, and you were sure you'd told me: you did indeed, in the Brussels letter!  So I got information and confirmation in one mail bag, but not before I'd sent off an appeal to S.P.E.R. for another one if they possibly could, and yesterday came a letter from them saying they'd forward another, and maybe the first one had gone astray in the post, but that they had sent it!!  So expect another mysterious round parcel.  I only hope they are the priceless originals I gather them to be! ***

     Keith and Virginia were staggered, as were Pennie and I, by the visage of the new A.G. (David's younger brother) in the Iron Man Race - what a hero, as the phraseology of Canberra High in the 1950's would have it.  He's certainly become a redoubtable all-rounder, definitely the success story, I feel quite unequal by comparison.

     Pennie and I are lately proud owners of yet another car --- we got a 1961 Falcon Station Wagon for $225, in excellent shape, to use as a mobile home during September when we plan to see Canada ( as far as Vancouver) Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, etc. and any other Western States that sound interesting.  We thought of renting a V.W.  camper, but at $680 a month, down the drain, we reckoned to do it far more cheaply this way, especially as we can resell it for nearly as much (we hope) before we leave.

     Our hopes of a reservation on the 'Himalaya' on (October 24th, were dashed - she is booked up already, but we are on a waiting list for cancellations, and Aileen Drury's excellent travel agent is working hard on our behalf to obtain alternative transport, leaving about the same time, maybe a Matson Freighter.  Will let you know the outcome, and estimated date of arrival in Australia of course when something crystallises.

     Went to Ann Blinks at Santa Cruz yesterday, she is super as you know and their mountain retreat (they have another, bigger house in Monterey) is a dream.  We had Charcoal broiled chicken and corn on the cob for lunch, then swam in the 40ft pool, overlooking pine-covered mountains, canyons, and in the far distance the ocean.  She apparently was a shadow of her real self when in Australia, due to thyroid inactivity, and according to Virginia is now her former power-house self after going onto thyroid pills recently.  She swims every day, frequently belts 50 miles to Monterey to see her sheep and of course does a lot of woolen milling and instructing in same.  Lawrence (husband, who wasn't there, he currently works at the Uni in Monterey) has a Harpsichord, or rather a virginal I would say, which he planned to learn, but never got around to it, so Virginia has her eye on it.  I was thrilled to see one, and am so taken I actually feel I could learn to play one, despite my most un-musical career (as a maker of music that is)  Maybe we can look forward to family flute**** and Harpsichord recitals.  This one was built fairly recently in the U.K. and cost the Blinks $700, second hand, which isn't so cripplingly expensive as I would have expected.

     Maybe by now you've viewed 'Tabitha' the Rodds did a fabulous job of taking delivery, getting her going etc.  --- I hope they had enough out of the £80 I sent to cover all expenses - luckily though a vast number of necessary phone calls which Mrs Rodd made were courtesy of the P.M.G.!  Maybe you can arrange a clandestine run around the block, if it appears advisable.  Don't for heavens sake tell her about our Falcon - she could take it very badly!   Keith of course has financed all our operations in the U.S. - I hope the eventual sale of the Falcon, after some restorative work on the paint, will return some sort of profit which we can employ as spending money, to pick up particularly a good tape recorder in duty-free Fiji, if our final home-travel booking includes a stop there.

     Pennie is currently involved in a huge programme of knitting and sewing. She produced a cardigan made of Icelandic wool, in a real Fair-Isle pattern for Virginia (at the latters request) and it surprised all by the excellence of it's production;  she has also altered several of Virginia's made but never worn skirts, etc.  to her own requirements and they look great, the materials being very attractive ones.  She is now tearing up an old cardigan, straightening the wool by wetting and drying, to re-knit it into a jumper or skirt, she doesn't know yet.

     Pennie and Virginia get on fabulously, swapping tales of woe about their ghastly husbands.  Virginia suddenly told Pennie yesterday why no children.    She was 5 months gone, almost all of it spent in bed and had to have a hysterectomy to save her, but says she was greatly saddened at the time, although now not at all regretful.  This was as we sat by the pool at Ann's, Virginia herself swimming and me jumping in and out of the water, appearing not to listen.

     We are gradually becoming one big happy family on the Peninsular, the friends I mentioned in Pacific Grove, we met at the house of the Falcon's former owners.  They (not the Falcon sellers) are young marrieds, she of an Australian mother, and recently resident in Woollahra, and he the son of Frank Meyrose a hunting pal of Keith's.  Virginia had been trying to arrange for us to meet them for weeks, when of all coincidences they turned up just as we took delivery of the Falcon, quite unaware who we were.  They are about to go touring to Canada, in their V.W. camper bus.  We also called the other night on the Bells, who own the Austin Taxi in Carmel, and had a lovely time chatting about life in the U.K. and earned their gratitude by fixing up their meter so it worked, with all the trimmings like the 'For Hire' sign going on and off appropriately, as to the position of the meter flag.

     Well we are nevertheless dying to get home and begin life in Australia, so to speak, and are eagerly awaiting results of the travel agents hunt.  This is all, so as to leave some room for the enclosures.

     Much love, David.

P.S.  Thanks for the family letter - I'm sorry Andrew feels left out of communications, it's just that I guess we feel any letter to Dominion from us is directed to all Griffiths' - to send letters in quadruplicate would serve little purpose - we have a colossal correspondence, what with U.K., U.S.S.R., U.S.A., and all our friends in Australia.  So to mollify feelings I guess this should be headed 'Dear Dad, Mum, Andrew and Julia.' and read as such!

Christmas (K&V) suggestions:  Australian Food Hamper, including tins of Arnotts Biscuits.  Yes Kangaroo belt for Keith, also, SAGO, he loves it and can't get it here.  Or even moleskin trousers for Keith, same size as Dad or A.G. or average of the two.  Virginia loves mine.





*  Those were the days  LOL  trying to work out a time to call someone overseas, you had to make a date and a time but as you can tell by the above incident you have get your times correct.

**  What David omitted here was that our friends, Doug and Sandy Meyrose, had some marijuana and had passed one around, I'd just had my first and only puff when the earth shook   LOL 

***  They are indeed!  And much loved by everyone in our family.

**** David's young sister was learning to play the Flute.

Letter - to David's Family - Carmel, California - 12.7.1970

                                                                                                              Carmel, California. 27.7.1970

Dear Mum, Dad, Andrew and Julia,

     Thanks a lot for all your best wishes, I had a very nice 1/4 century starting in San Francisco with a Champagne Breakfast party, this was at the home of some friends we met through Virginia, we stayed there a couple of nights while we looked around San Francisco and on the 23rd some of their friends came over and we had a Breakie Party.

     Before I forget, the best thing to send Keith and Virginia for Christmas (and I'm not kidding) would be one of those big tins of Arnotts biscuits.  I know you can still get them cause my Dad used to get them for Office Tea Time breaks in the shop in Liverpool Street.  I think there is a $3 deposit on the tin but this is one thing Keith and Virginia have asked Dudu to send them and she always told them they could get better here, I know that would please them greatly.*  They are still great cookie eaters.**

     Virginia is a marvelous cook and she remembers everyone's likes and dislikes, I still can't get over the pavlova we had the night we arrived.  She isn't one bit as I'd imagined she'd be, she is really funny at times.  Up at the mountain cabin last weekend she gave us a very funny imitation of Keith singing 'The Letter edged in Black', when Keith had just arrived in the states.  Keith is also a dear, he makes the odd rough exclamation such as... 'GOD - HELL - I don't know... and 'Ooooohhhh  Veeerrrrginia' when Virginia says something he doesn't believe or thinks is silly.

     They both call us 'The Kids'  and treat us as though we were which is a lot of fun, Keith is a little deaf now but he hears what he wants to I think, he takes us everywhere he goes and introduces us to everyone.  His dog - (it really was for Virginia but Debbie the dog worships Keith), is very old and is a little blind but when Keith is out in his truck Debbie is put in back in a cage and she barks and barks, you can hear them coming miles off, they were never able to train her to travel quietly in the front, at one stage they discovered that if she got frightened she'd go under the seat and - silence - so Keith would drive along with a cap gun and when she barked he'd shoot the gun, it worked but must have looked a bit cruel so he stopped it and now puts up with it.  I'm running out of things to tell you about them that I think you wouldn't know.  We love them and we have great outings an times with them.

     Julia - in the U.K. the maxi and the midi were in but only worn by a few young girls.  What I thought was funny was to see a girl in a nice long coat and underneath she would have on a mini skirt and the coat would have a long slit up the back and front so she could catch the bus and trains etc.  so the idea of having a long skirt or coat to keep warm didn't really work.  I haven't seen any midi or maxi shirts here, it's really too hot though.  There are lots of dirty Hippies around, they are always hitching and they are so lazy they often sit down cross legged and read something with one arm out.  Or they even lie down with their head on their knapsack.

     We all agree and will be home waiting by the phone on Tuesday 4.8.70 at 7pm U.S.A. time, 6pm is right on Virginia and Keith's dinner time so hope that makes it okay your end, if not we'll wait till we hear from you again.

     Hope Julia enjoys the C.G. Dance.  Haven't heard from or about Dad for months, I suppose he is busy traveling around.   Have you seen Tabitha yet? We've had letters from Newport, they all think she is beaut.

     Love for now, Pennie  XX





*When David and I settled back in Australia I sent a tin (you could buy smaller tins by then) of Arnotts Biscuits to them every Christmas.

** Every second Tuesday Virginia would bake Keith's favourite cookies, she would bake 60 of them and allowed each of them two a day.  On one baking day David waked through the kitchen as these cookies were cooling and he picked up a couple as he moved on... Virginia was outraged!  This totally threw her out.

Letter - to David's Mother - Carmel, California - 12.7.1970

                                                                                                                           Carmel, July 1970

Dear Mum,

     Just had a rather alarming letter from you:  dated April 4th, it's been to London, Vienna, back to London, back to Canberra and came to Box 1556 surface mail in a OHMS envelope from Canberra P.O.!!!  Shows great dedication on the part of the various P.O.'s but I wonder why the bank didn't forward it to Farnham Road on May 5th when it returned from Vienna - oh well they seem to be getting it right nowadays.  Also the news of Dudu, (David's Grandmother) rejecting all visitors was rather worrying, but it would seem since the arrival of the 'Live-in', plus dog, that she is better - I hope our letters and postcards do her some good.  Do make it clear to her, if our letters don't that we'll be home in three months, November at the latest.

     Tonight we go to our third concert in three days, in the Carmel Bach Festival - it's been super, Keith and Virginia are sort of life member subscribers, but had only their own tickets, so we went up to the 'Sunset Cultural Center' to see what was left and got into Saturday's Harpsichord recital, (Bach preludes, sonata and 8 Scarlatti Sonatas, the performers speciality), tonight's Concert, Bach and Mozart;  Keith and Virginia don't break their habit of weekend visit to the coast, even for the Bach Festival, so we had their tickets for yesterday's Mass in B Minor, Pennie was thrilled to bits by it and I was well pleased but I look forward to tonight most of all.

     We're going to San Francisco tomorrow, in Virginia's Falcon, to stay a couple of days with some people to whom Virginia directed us*, they've been in Carmel for a few days, came to lunch with us yesterday and invited us up to San Francisco any time, so we said this week for two days, mainly to have a first look around and to look up our friend Louis Daugherty (met in Belgrade), his wife is still in New York seeing to the landing of their VW Camper, while Louis starts his new job on time, he's a Pathologist at University of California, Medical Centre.

     Everything has arrived now.  SPER Magazine, O.B.U., towing mags, and belt to which many thanks, although I must admit Pennie has appropriated it, it fits her jeans, but not my mole-skins which are my only belted pants and have narrow straps.  The SPER mag is a beauty, their 'bi-centenary' issue and served to increase my anxiety about my destination roll which I ordered from them - it should be a biggish parcel - did it ever come?  If not I must write to them in the hope of obtaining 'the last on the shelf' - it was a limited issue, of genuine originals.

     Just returned from a lovely concert - my  favourite Brandenburg Concerto (#4) plus Mozart Flute and Harp Concerto, which Dad must know almost by heart, then a Bach Cantata and Mozart no. 39 Symphony - all pretty well done, considering the fairly small and fairly young orchestra, but I thought the harpist in the Mozart concerto was lousy - we'll see what tomorrow's paper thinks.

     On the weekend we go to the mountain cabin, I'm not too clear where except that it's above Big Sur - for the Friday and Saturday nights, then on Sunday Pen and I are to come back in the Falcon, to go to meet some more friends in Carmel Valley.  Their son is our age, a little shy we're told, but very interested in travel, particularly Australia, so we should get on well.  Virginia is being absolutely wonderful, arranging ever so smoothly for us to meet, dine, talk, etc. with all sorts of nice people, while Keith unobtrusively sees to every financial and transport item.  We are getting so spoiled, you'll probably find us highly undesirable when we get back.

     We went shearing the other day - a flock of 10 belonging to a friend of Keith's in Pebble Beach - he does everybody's it seems just for the exercise and 'old times sake'  I tried my hand at a couple and managed, but look forward to further practice.  Ann Blinks will be a possible customer - she has the largest flock, of 35 or so and Virginia has been trying to make a date for us to meet her, as well as many others - I honestly hardly know what next.  We dined with the Davis', next door last night, Liz is Virginia's sister and John D. her husband was a big-gun lawyer in San Francisco, Very Social Couple until he developed depression mania.  Super to talk to though.

     Love D & P    x

* I think this was the Skylor's who were very welcoming as were all the people Virginia organized for us to meet, some of whom we are still in contact with.

Letter - to David's Mother Mary - Carmel, California - 12.7.1970

c/- Box 1556, Carmel, California. July 12th.

Dear Mum,

     It's happened - we're here, we've met Virginia, (that fairy-story being ever since I heard the name), Pennie is entirely thrilled with Keith, and after seeing some of Virginia's dress making is quite awed at her expertise.  We are getting right royal treatment, from being met at Pier 80, San Francisco, by Keith and Aileen Drury, to our very own cottage just next door but one to Keith and Virginia themselves.  It belongs to Mr McCloud, whose name attaches to a very big dress shop in town.

     We've scotched a lot of baseless assumptions or impressions for ourselves - such as the on that Keith and Virginia live in a post box, that they were tea total, health food fiends, that Virginia was the immaculately accoutred queen of local society.  It's been really exciting to discover their house, on the southern end of town, quite near the flats of the frequently dry Carmel River, and over looking a very historic Spanish Mission building dating from early 19th Century.  Keith has a big 4 wheel drive Ford Utility, like a 50% larger land rover, and Virginia has a Falcon, which we are able to use most of the time, as she only uses it about once a fortnight.

     Virginia's sister Liz and husband live next door, the street being Franciscan Way, incidentally and Mrs Drury about 3 - 4 blocks away, towards the main beach at the centre of town.  Also 3-4 blocks away, but nearer the water, are a family called Bell, who own a Tabitha Taxi - exactly the same as ours, about 3-4 months older, being registered VLC, ours is VYN.  I met Mrs Bell driving it in town, spoke to her, and heard all about how they got it - they paid £400, rather typical charge-the-yanks-double price, for a car in very much the same condition as ours, except for a rusted front mudguard.  They also got a meter, same as ours, and also won a set of 'Keep your feet off and sit well back" notices, on the base of the fold-away seats, also ads for handicapped children's charity, int he same position.

     Carmel is very reminiscent of Palm Beach - same sort of vegetation (including gum trees), same sort of housing - same old shacks from the earliest days, other new pretentious mansions from recent big development, even a nearby supermarket, etc complex like the Warringah Mall.  The supermarket even carries Australian (Swan) beer as well as a mass of others, Dutch, Danish, English, German, Norwegian etc etc. which is great because U.S. beer is so weak and tasteless- rather like sweetened mineral water.

     Virginia and Pennie get on terrifically, she is a very good cook and a superb dressmaker, tailor in fact, and is going to make Pennie something when they find a pattern.  She does all her work on an ancient Singer, miniature electric model, but the rest of the house if very much up to date - automatic washing machine/drying machine, electric can opener, built in vacuum cleaner system, with outlets in each room, beautiful furniture, mainly in natural woods, to go with the house which is all wood, finished by painting straight onto completely un-planed, rough-from-the -sawmill, planks they rubbing over with another bit of wood to leave the high spots bare.   The floor is rough-sawn planks, smoothed, but not leveled, so it' a bit undulating, but the whole is beautiful.   We bought a Japanese tier of baskets, in a little town we visited there, and though it could perhaps have fitted into one of their cottages, but Virginia was thrilled with it and wants to put it in the dining room.  So that was fortuitous bit of souvenir buying.  We also bought 2 pineapples, fresh from the plantation in Hawaii, and only just ripening, which Keith loved.

     We've had some fascinating chats about family skeletons, stories of doings long ago, learned a lot about D.S. Evans and his life, also Amphletts.  Keith by the way thinks he is a very conscientious correspondent, considering the number of people he is expected to write to, nine he says, and Virginia thinks we are stupendous letter - writers, having had four postcards form us since we left U.K.  By the way, did you get all yours, viz. one from each of Copenhagen, Warsaw, Leningrad, Khabarousk, Japan and Honolulu?  

     I am already established as local fix-it, Virginia's auto-record changer yesterday, with Aileen's radio-operated garage door to come (it squeaks), but chances of a paying job appear slim in the Carmel area.  However Keith is being as generous as could be possible, and talks of settling a lump sum on us, to see us through travels in the U.S., with some for spending on duty-free goods in Fiji left over if we budget right.  so we may just buy a $99 Greyhound ticket, and go travelling in the Western States for a month, trusting to Youth Hostels and Y.M. / Y.W.  C.A.'s

     Keith took us to Monterey the other day, it is full of devotedly restored historic buildings from the Spanish, Independent and early American eras, all with informative plaques on the footpath outside.  We lunched on Fisherman's Wharf, overlooking the water, today he's taking us driving up the Carmel River Valley.  Yesterday he went down to the Big Sur Cottage, Virginia wouldn't let him take us, because she wanted to be there to see our reactions when we see it!  She also told Keith and Aileen not to pump us about our U.K. to U.S.A. trip on the drive from San Francisco - she wanted to hear it first - hand.  Well thank for all the mail (3 of yours awaited us here - dated May 24th, June 2nd, June 30th) despatch of OBU, SPER, and BELT noted, but not yet received.  On that subject, DO TELL if my destination roll has reached me from SPER - if not I must blast them because I sent $10, early enough to be sure of one (one of the original early Sydney Tram ones, with all those coloured Geometrical symbols as well as place names).    I'll set your mind at rest when the belt, etc. parcel arrives here.  Haven't actually heard , except for a cryptic cable received on the ship just out of Yokohama, whether Tabitha Taxi is fully through Customs and into 5 Calvert Parade - the cable just said 'arrived safely', referring perhaps to the storm Orcades ran into, and Tabitha's physical, if not customs, well being.

     Well, loving Carmel (went to the 'Village Theatre', i.e. cinema, for a very way out new generation movie, Bob & Carol & Ted & Alice), the rest of America a big gaudy and unlovely, but more of that when we've been around a bit.

     Love Dave, also Pen.

Letter - to David's Mother Mary - From Pennie - London - 23.5.1970

                                                                                                                               c/o Bank of N.S.W.
                                                                                                                               9-15 Sackville Street.
                                                                                                                               London.  U.K.
                                                                                                                               May 1970
Dear Mum-in-law,

     Well I've plucked up the courage and had it done, the photo is a very bad one, too dark but it gives you some idea of what the new Pennie looks like, that's my new red plastic mac we bought in Belgium for £4.  Dave prefers me with short hair and it will be a lot easier to travel with in the next six months.

      Tabitha Taxi was taken down to Southampton yesterday ready for her big sea voyage, she doesn't seem to be worried about it at all, she should like Australia if it's not too hot when she arrives about the end of June, if my memory serves me right.  That's winter back home of course, we'll be in Japan by then and it will be Summer.

     We leave next Wednesday for Denmark so we're pretty busy saying goodbye to all our friends every night is booked up till we go so I've got the job of writing all the letters, we haven't heard from Keith* for ages but he knows when we arrive, and it all depends on how long we can afford to stay in the States.  We've got invites to stay in San Francisco with Louis and Shelia Daugherty and baby Eugene, we met them in Belgrade, they were doing the same thing as us only in a V.W. Combi Van, we went through Hungary and met them again in Austria, we hope they will get to the U.K. before we leave but if not we'll see them in the U.S.A.  Also an invitation to stay with Ted and Penny Charlesworth in Vancouver, we met Ted and Penny in Dubrovnik while we were waiting for Trevor and Mary-Liz.  Ted and Penny and two children (9 & 10) took one year off and have been right round the world, they should be in Australia by now, they were only going to Queensland so we couldn't give them our addresses.

     We didn't meet up with Trevor and Mary-Liz but had a letter not long ago from them from Dubrovnik, they'd arrived three days too late, by that time we were in Sarajevo so now we won't see them till they get back home in a few years or however long they intend to stay over.

     Mrs Waugh is looking after us very well but it is very difficult to be so tied down to someone as far as meals go when we have been our own bosses for so long, she shows us off to everyone, takes us here and there to meet someone who has a cousin who's sister-in-law knows someone who used to live in such and such a place in Australia and so it goes on.  She is very kind and she says she will miss us when we go, and she will poor dear, what with Christine very happy in Perth and Peter about to go back to Australia any minute and no Grandchildren, (her main wish) to fuss over, she will be very quiet. **    Mr Waugh*** hasn't been very well and he looks awful but he's devoted every spare minute of his life to his shop which doesn't even belong to him and never will, you can't expect more.


     Glad you thought Mr Gallagher was a sweetie, so do I, he has the most marvelous soft Irish accent it would put anyone in a trance, parsnips or no parsnips.****

     This was just a short one before we get moving we will send the postcards and letters when we can afford them.

     Love to Dad, Andrew and Julia.   Pennie
P.S.  Dave sends love and says my hair looks beaut.

* Keith is Mary's oldest brother, he married an American girl and they lived in Carmel, California.  We intended to go home when we got to Tokyo but he wrote and told us he'd make it worth our while to come to the States to visit him, we were assuming that meant he would find us some work.

** Christine went back to England after a couple of years, before she became an Australian Citizen, she need an operation on her knees because of an accident she'd had during her teens.  Her engagement broke up before they arrived in Australia.  Peter only made one brief visit to Australia.  Elsie wanted her children to live in Surrey and they weren't game to deny her.  Elsie was well into her 80's before Peter gave her grandchildren.

*** Rupert Waugh died about a year after we left, he worked at 'Bernards', a bacon, sausage and cheese shop up the top of North Street, Guildford.

****  We stayed with the Gallagher's a couple of times in Warwickshire, she was an old school friend of Mary's and they were very welcoming.  Mr was a Dr and was trying hypnotherapy.  I was worried about putting on weight with all this stodgy English food, so he offered to hypnotize me.  He needed to know what food I really didn't like and all I could think of was Grandma Rodd's horrible Parsnips that we had to eat.  Needless to say his hypnotherapy didn't work, maybe because I deliberately hadn't eaten a parsnip for so many years I'd forgotten what they tasted like  :-)

Letter - to David's Mother Mary - London - 20.5.1970

117 Farnham Road,

Guildford, Surrey.

20th May 1970

Dear Mum,

     Thanks a lot for your letter - very meaty and newsy, why to 5 Hall Dene Close though?  We've left there long ago.  From now on, all the time until July 12 when we arrive in the USA our address will be c/o Keith at P.O. Box 1556 Carmel (I suppose they have a house too?),  please write to Bank of N.S.W. - they will forward all.  We've been surprisingly, so busy back here in the U.K. - after getting Tabitha all back in shape after her European ordeals we've been to see some of our friends, to London to get our tickets for U.K. East Berlin and Japan - U.S.A. - Sydney:  The Polish and USSR ones are not quite ready, and we can't have the Visas until our bookings are confirmed.*  Went to Ford's factory at Dagenham on Tuesday, very exciting hive of planned bedlam.   Took that ancient British institution, the coach excursion, with a group organized by Mrs. Waugh to Hever Castle in Kent yesterday.  Ann Boleyn was born there and she met Henry VIII there, then William Waldorf Astor bought it filled it with Italian sculpture and some very fine portaits, Titian, Cranach, Gheeraerts etc.  And quite a pleasant trip there, through countryside all green with Spring growth and the blossom.

     Glad you've met the Gallaghers** - they've been wonderful to us, are absolutely fascinating people to be with - they both do so much and talk about such interesting things - Pen is also very fond of Mr. - he has such a soothing accent, hasn't he.

     Sounds like you've been having a real ball lately - openings with the Queen, etc.  - good going!  Who or what is the lessee of Cooma Cottage*** - is somebody going to rent it, live there, keep it up, once restored, etc?

     I hope you get more postcards that you seem to have so far - we sent one from each country at least, two from some.

     We really had a super trip, I think the cards probably convey impressions we gained, but we certainly had a super time for 7 weeks on £100, all included, food, fuel etc., and we have ourselves a rather good copy of a Masterpiece in the Munich Art Gallery (from our dear old lady friend in in Budapest)  it's called "Ruhendes Madchess" (Relaxing or serene, maiden) by Francois Boucher.

     Had a drink with Peter de Wit, ex Controls Company Works Manager (they've closed down in U.K. - I just left at the right time!)  he's Dutch, and filled us in with background detail on lots of things we saw in Holland.

     We leave U.K. Wednesday week, May 27th, for the last time.  So sad, but we're looking forward hugely to our trip.

     Guess what - I have a job for one week, to plug the drain on our finances all these weeks of holiday have created.  I'm a coach driver, for a small family firm in Cranleigh a nearby village. So I'm leaving as I arrived, although on a slightly higher plane.  Much love David

P.S.  Yes please send Roo Belt to Carmel.

*  We had to make a couple of trips to London to visit the USSR Embassy, we were trying to get our Visa's, they wouldn't give us a Visa until we had our Accommodation booked.  So off we'd go to the Russian Intourist to book our Accommodation but they wouldn't book any until we had our Visa from the Embassy.  This went on a couple of times then eventually one of they gave in (I can't remember which)  our Accommodation was booked and we had our Visa's.

**  Mrs G was one of Mary's school friends, they had been very good to us on our visits to Warwickshire and had now moved to Australia.

*** Cooma Cottage was the home of Hamilton Hume, the first Australian born Explorer. Mary bought his home in a derelict state and needed someone to live there to look after it while she negotiated with the National Trust about giving it to them to do up.  They wouldn't take it on, so she replaced the roof for $200,000 then they accepted the Donation and finished doing it up.  It was officially opened to the public in our bicentenary year, 1988.

Letter - David's Mother - Dubrovnik - 4.4.1970

Dear Mum, Dad, Andrew and Julia,                                                              Written by Pennie.

      I'm sitting in the glorious sunshine on a rough dirt track overlooking the beautiful crystal clear Adriatic Sea, Dave is putting some plastic padding on the muffler and I've just done some washing, people walk by now and then and by their looks they give us, I'm sure they think we're mad.

     Well I'll start at the beginning - We left Dover early on March 16th by Hovercraft, it was terrific the way it set off on the land and just skimmed over the channel to France in just 35 minutes instead of about 2 1/2 hours by Ferry, I still threw up a couple of times though, unfortunately.

     We drove on the wrong (right) side of the road again and headed for Paris arriving in the evening rush hour and had to go right through from North to South, we made it after taking several wrong turns and trying to look at everything, Dave at the Trams me at the Shops.  We stayed at the Youth Hostel the whole time and had bed and breakfast for $A1.20 each.  Breakfast was a real experience with plenty of French Bread, Butter, Jam and big breakfast bowls full of coffee or chocolate, but it wasn't hard to get used to.

     First day we visited Notre Dame which is a really simple but beautiful Cathedral, walked along the River Seine which is so clean it hardly seems possible in such a dusty place as Paris.  Caught an old bus to the Eiffel Tower but didn't go up because it costs $A1.50 each.  We really did a lot in Paris for very little but if you wanted to you could spend a bomb on very little.  Next the Arc de Triomphe and a slow wander down the Avenue Champs Elysee's past all the super night clubs and dress shops and car shops.  We ate crepes from little old ladies making them on the sidewalk and had a couple of drinks in the real sidewalk cafe, coke costs 20c for a small bottle and wine costs 25c a litre, so I've discovered I like wine at last. (I'm surprised I wrote this my preference for wine didn't last long, it's the wine's fault, it doesn't like me!)

      Next day was spent at the Louvre which is really too big to see in one day but we did try.   The only things that really took our fancy were the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo and the State Apartments.  Next day we went to Montmartre and visited the fantastic Church on top of the hill (you'll see all these things in our photos)  caught the funicular railway to the bottom and went back to the Louvre and saw the French Impressionists, the lovely Renior's, Degas' and Surat's, this was our favourite place, we spent ages there just staring at everything.

     Drove to Versailles to the Palace and Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon these were really spectacular, they really knew how to live in those days.  That evening we headed south and slept two nights by the road in France then into Switzerland.  The brilliant sunshine and several feet of snow were a real treat after miles and miles of dusty France.  The first impression one gets is how clean and neat everything is, the people are friendly and love Tabitha Taxi.  We stayed at Montreux in a closed camping area for free which was right on Lake Geneva and the view - still lake, rugged mountains going straight up and tops covered in snow.  Beautiful.   No sooner than we'd washed Tabitha it started to rain.  Everything looks wealthy, we were told the unemployment figure is 20 so there is no poverty.  Had a great filling meal with terrific cooking and service for $A2 each.  Soup as much as we wanted, 2 bowls even and meat, Dave had pork with a delicious sauce and I had veal and beautiful spinach and piles of thin french fries and a pudding, bread and two wines - not bad.

     We caught a few trains because there was nothing else to do because of the rain and drove into Italy through the Grand St Bernard Tunnel, the change into Italy is obvious with roads bad, dirty and untidy, everyone throws their rubbish into the lovely rivers and waterfalls and spoils them.  Next day we drove along the base of the mountains and back into Switzerland at Lugano and stay at the Best Youth Hostel we've seen yet, swimming pool the lot and spotlessly clean.  We have a meal there for 60c which consisted of soup one rather large white sausage, piles of salad and rice and big breakfast bowls of tea, it was delicious but haven't a clue what the sausage was.  While there we went to Swiss Miniature, all the old and famous buildings in Switzerland in miniature, you just walk all around them and watch the cars, trains and boats go around, it was cute but poured with rain the whole time.  Back to Italy along the lovely lake Como and into Milan, showered at the Youth Hostel and went to see your friends the Jamison's, Cecile looks very well much better than she did last year and full of beans, they seemed pleased to see us and we all chatted non stop.  Elizabeth arrived from England the day before and the next day they were all off to Sardinia for Easter - we really had a slap up meal at a lovely restaurant, you didn't order anything, trolleys laden with food were bought to the table and you helped yourself, 6 courses we had of real Italian food and gallons of wine and bread.  Stayed a the hostel that night and had our suitcase stolen, it was our own fault it was strapped onto the luggage rack not locked in the car as it should have been.  All our clothes went, 320 cigarettes (David was a smoker in those days)  and all our important documents for the Taxi and about shipping the Taxi home.  We had one change of clothes in the Hostel luckily but they are good ones and too warm for down here now.  The really annoying part is we've thrown everything out that didn't fit in the trunks and that now leaves us no clothes at all except a couple of good things we had no intention of taking to Russia or the U.S.A.  I'm going to be busy sewing when I get back to the UK for three weeks.  The Police and the Australian Consul is looking into it for us but we haven't much hope of recovery - we are double sure now after the loss.  The drive from Milan to Venice was a bit dull, we camped the night near a cemetery and awoke late the next morning in the middle of a funeral and boy oh boy, what a funeral, everybody was in it.

What a beautiful place Venice is, so like all the paintings you see, all the canals were quite clean for Italy and St Marks, beautiful mosaics in gold.  Hoards of people there because of Easter and the souvenir sellers pestering everyone and the Gondolas charge $A5 for a short trip so we dipped out again. We spent three days in Venice just walking and looking.  Everything was closed because of Easter but we found a great Pizzeria with a little old lady making Pizzas in front of you and they were really delicious.

From Venice straight to Yugoslavia.  At the border there is a lot of soldiers but as we got further south we saw none, the country is so rugged it seems impossible to do anything with but every square patch of flat earth has lettuce growing in it, the Peasants are charming, we wave to them and they stop what they're doing and wave and wave.  Split then Dubrovnik.  The coastline is something out of this world, the water is so clear and clean, the small beaches so cute.  The countryside is very clean and the people are willing to help.  Dubrovnik is terrific completely walled and is in very good condition, today for 3 dinars (20c) each we will walk along the top of the walls.  Last night for dinner I cooked some sort of fish and squid it was delicious even if I do say so myself.  I think David agrees.

     We had our Yugoslav meal yesterday, a national dish - soup then grilled pork placed on top of rice and mixed vegetables, doesn't sound very exciting but it was good.  We are hoping to meet Trevor and Mary Liz today at the Youth Hostel which is closed so we will just wait around and hope.   Dave says if I don't let him say something you'll think he's forgotten you, so over to him.            Love Pennie

Well not much left to say, except we are having pretty good weather as a rule, we expected to be swimming in the Adriatic, but there's quite a chill in the air despite the bright sunshine.  The case lost in Milan was a bit of a shock, but a great nuisance, as Pen lost so many clothes, and me, the car documents which are replaceable I hope before we ship her off on May 26th.  Otherwise we can feel lucky it wasn't the whole car taken, or damaged in some way.  We are seeing all sorts of interesting buildings, museums, shops, trying restaurants and wines all over the place and of course seeing mind boggling amounts of fabulous scenery and talking to quite a lot of people, both locals and other travellers like ourselves.  There are dozens of VW Kombi campers around, from all over Europe, but mostly U.S.A. and Canada, a lot of Aussies, in Bedford Dormobiles mainly.    We've just been talking to a Canadian couple, (This is where we met Ted and Penny from Vancouver, we still keep in touch and have managed to see them a couple of times over all these years.) as we sat waiting hoping to meet Trevor and Mary Liz, this couple have two children, about 9 or 10 years and a VW and come from Vancouver.  They've been on the road about 7 months, all over Europe also into Asia and Africa, they gave us their address in Vancouver to come and stay a while if we get there from Carmel.  We also met a US couple in Venice who are living in Germany teaching US Air Force kids, in Beyreuth, (This was Doug and Frankie) who've asked us to stay a while if we get there a night there on our way through Germany.  It's wonderful sort of international friendship you find doing this sort of travelling, there is so much we all have in common to talk about, so much to lean about other countries by talking to each other.

We're beginning to think as the day wears on, that Trevor and Mary Liz aren't going to make it here - but we haven't had any message by post or though the Hostel - it's a bit depressing.  Mail is coming through well, the Bank is super efficient with it (although Trevor didn't get my Kangaroo skin belt, I think it's gone astray as I suspect the occasional letter from us and to us hence the occasional times when we haven't known what the other is on about) and the bank will carry on even after we've left UK, so carry on with it as the standard address until we get home.

We've just, about to compose another epistle to Dudu, we've sent the odd P.C. en route, but haven't written for ages, as we haven't to you.  Good on Cooma Cottage - hope it's all smooth progress , if involved and we really look forward to seeing what cooks when we get home.  Interesting about Clive Lucas - I've met him several times and he's a really nice chap.  Elizabeth Jamieson is a very poised little lady, going to be quite pretty I think - I always wonder what my little sister is gong to be when I see her again after 3 years!

No sign of Trevor yet, so we'll go off and park somewhere for the night cook up our canned beef, spuds, local bread and cheese, etc. and wash it all down with rough red wine.  (4 dinars a litre here: a dinar is 7c.)

Taking masses of photos, been through 5 reels so far in three weeks of 36 per reel!  Quite a developing bill if I don't start discriminating a bit.

Well that's about all, write again soon, we'll get it okay, yours of March 22 reached us April 3, which isn't bad.

Much love Dave.

Aerogram - David's Mother - Merrow - 20.2.1970

(By now our plans were underway for another couple of months in Europe, return to England then returning to Australia through Russia, across the Trans Siberian Railway to Japan then onto California for four months arriving back in Australia near the end of 1970.  Finances were tight and David's grandmother Dudu lent us some money to pay for the trip to California.)

Dear Mum,

     Time is drawing near - three weeks now to blast off by Hoovercraft* to Boulogne - same price as the boat, so why not, indeed.  We've just had a very thrilling letter from T. H. Jamison in India, indicating that he and 'Lizard' (Mary Elizabeth) will be in Greece at the end of March, just when we are supposed to reach Dubrovnik in Yugoslavia - almost next door so we're telling them to meet up with us.  What larks if we can do it and return to UK en-quatre.

     Glad to have your financial run down, and I'm sorry if we seem to have misunderstood each other,** it's all the result of what wasn't said rather than anything else, I didn't realize this, you didn't realize that, etc, etc, but may I say thank you very much for your Substantial support, word of which happily arrived in the same mail.  As you say a/c Kingston isn't dry, and Ruberoid and share divs have rolled in, but we really swore to ourselves we'd touch that only in the direst emergency, so as to have something approaching the deposit on a house to return to.  U.K. hasn't been over generous, it isn't to anyone the way taxes are (you name it, Mr Jenkins taxes it!) so we have enough cash now to see us around Europe and to feed us from Harwich to Carmel in May and June.  (arrive Carmel July 12th)***  I've asked T.E.A. to fix us up with the remaining taxi 'fare', plus duty payable in Australia etc.  Good on you for the Riberoid re-investment, not exactly a growth share these days I would say.  Also kudos on pressing for the Moth Div:  I honestly was surprised it was saleable, let alone to $60 extent!  That will serve as a handy standby.

     Well most things seem to be going our way - I hope some can be said for Cooma Cottage.****  I know you'll be persevering, despite apparent odds, it must pay in the end.  History being in short supply in Australia it's obviously a potentially valuable commodity like Taxis, I trust.  Not that I plan to sell, far from it  - it may even pay to fit the meter and ply for spare hire?

     So for now, thanks Mum for your very real concern - we're not in dire straits, of course just pretty finely tuned financially, will write again soon.

Love David

* Hoovercrafts finished service on the English Channel in 2000, the trip took 35 minutes 

**We got the impression in one of David's Mothers letters to us that she want us to come home and live in Cooma Cottage which was derelict and with not enough land to farm.

*** David's mothers brother lived in Carmel, California.  We were planning to visit him but because of lack of finances wrote and told him we would wouldn't be able to make it this time but he wrote and told us to come and he'd make it worth our while which we took to believe he would get us jobs, even if we didn't have working visa's.

**** David's Mother bought Cooma Cottage, from an ancestor of Hamilton Hume (Australian born Explorer) who built the cottage, she then tried to donate the cottage to the National Trust but they wouldn't take it because the roof was falling in so Mary paid for a new roof at the cost of $200,000.00 and in 1988 officially handed it over to the National Trust.

Aerogram - David's Mother - England 26.2.1969

5 Hall Dene Close, Merrow. nr Guildford. Surrey. 26th February 1969

Dear Mum,

     Back in bed, 'our' bed, after 6 weeks in back of taxi or in Spanish 'Pensiones', hostels, etc.  Chronologically:- Got a letter from you in Rome, via the bank, mentioning Cecile* and A.B. in Milano so wrote immediately, popped into Consulate to get very efficient shorthand message as to finding their apartment, called in one afternoon, for cuppa, when Cecile was very busy fixing moving in details, with Jimmy away 'presenting credentials' in Turin.  Met Elizabeth, 'Tim', to my great surprise, as I really didn't know she existed.  Then away for that night in local Youth Hostel which proved to be closed for 2 months for renovation.  Also there, 2 others, a Liverpudlian bloke and a Columbus, Ohio girl travelling together, so we invited them in (the taxi) to eat with us - we bought pizza, cheese, wine, and mortadella sausage & had toasted sandwiches al fresco, and a lot of fun, in the icy weather.  They trotted off into the night, we camped there, tripped around Milan next day, and returned to Cecile's 5pm that evening for dinner and to stay the night, in a CENTRALLY HEATED apartment - for three days previously, we'd had snow and ice, mountain passes, Autostradas, (motorways) closed by snow and striking toll-collectors - the taxi, unscathed until then, got clocked by a sports car racing up hill the other way, which lost control on a corner and smashed into our left hand front wing, wheel, etc.  Only surface damage to us, but it bent the sports car.

     Well Cecile and Jimmy pleased to see us, terribly good to us, and full of news of folks at home (including a few snippets of inside family information hitherto denied me!)  Thence on up the mountains to Mont Blanc, on which ascent the motor developed a frightful knock, which decided us to drive dead slow non-stop across France (snow and ice the WHOLE WAY, from the Alps to the Channel.)  Quite a thrilling event, looking back on it.  Now safely back in or near London, the taxi has lost the knock entirely, and continues to perform like a charm - she seems almost ready for a Scottish tour:  this after visions of abandoning her somewhere in Switzerland or France, after the Mont Blanc Tunnel!  The latter, incidentally, a bit of a treat - 7 miles long, passing directly under the mountain - lit all the way, but with the rattle of the engine echoing wildly in the apparently endless cavern - more than exciting I assure you.

     Back in London we stayed with Terry Watkins (my best man) in his Chelsea flatlet, which was jolly decent of him, 3 of us in the one bedsitting room, for a week or so, while we travelled to Woking daily, hunting flats:  we now have this one - the upper floor of a semi-detached house in one of Guildford's 'Estates' - very comfy if undistinguished, 7 guineas per week, including hot water and a business woman landlady (no husband, but she's Mrs.) whom we never see.  Terry lent us £30 to pay our rent in advance, Keith sent us $US 50 Christmas/touring present, Pennie's Great Aunt Carol £10, and now we are pretty well back on our feet, with the Henfield electricity bill covered, and me back bus-driving, but with my name on Employment Agencies books for an Engineering staff (i.e. white collar) job.  There appear many good possibilities in the area.  Pennie has ideas of part time salesgirl in 'Marks & Spencer', the huge clothes store: £10 for 4-5 days per week, it seems.  Both very well and in high spirits.  Love D xxx
       Love to all, Dad, Andrew, Doodie.

P.S.  Total cost of our 5,000 mile holiday, including boat fares = £130 for 40 days.

* Cecile Jamieson was a school friend of David's mothers)

Aerogram - David's Mother - Spain -24.1.1969

Near Barcelona. 24th January 1969

Dear Mum,

     Took a big plunge and bought Aerograms today, postcards were becoming a drag, and dear.  Our last few days have been fabulous weather - after our WEEK of rain from Madrid, all through Portugal, and back into Spain.  But, starting from Lisbon:  Portugal is delightful, cost of living about the same as Spain but standard's far higher, streets cleaner, buildings newer, gardens and greenery everywhere (AND Lisbon has double-decker buses).  We had a fuel tank leak later in Portugal, in a tiny village we sought out the garage, a horde of mechanics, mostly children, descended on the Taxi, ripped out the tank, a more important man covered it with solder, all for 50 escudos (15/-) then on we went.

     Seville in Spain was very interesting, we climbed the Cathedral bell-tower, saw the horse and carriage taxi's (as well as all the Fiats), saw orange trees bearing fruit, lining all the streets and camped in the camping site (many of which are well appointed all over the Continent).   Malaga next on the coast, all touristy, highly overrated and dirty (grey sand and pebble beaches), so continued to Almeria, camped just before it in a site right on a lovely secluded beach, met a few British, 2 Aussies from Sydney, and 2 young Americans who are going to the U.K. so we hope to meet again.  They knew Carmel well, being from San Francisco.

     We lazed in hot sun for 3 days, went to Almeria shopping, washed the taxi (fantastic change in her appearance), and were shouted a meal by the Americans at their favorite local restaurant!  They've been camped there 6 weeks after bicycling from Paris!  He's taking Spanish guitar lessons in town for almost no cost, she's knitting and learning Spanish.  Quite a pair.  Dragged ourselves away though, did more shopping in Almeria market (bottle refills of Muscatel: 14 pesetas (1/9) fabulous prawns (we have prawns fried in olive oil and garlic every so often) for almost 5/- a pound.  Olives too are beaut and cheap, eggs about 6c each, not cheap, bread almost nothing, sardines 9c a can, etc. etc.  Frozen fish strangely appears the best buy: we had a beaut piece tonight for 22vpesetas (2/9) where as the same thing in a market could cost 60 or 80 pesetas, oranges, naturally, are 2 a penny (literally) so we have lots of them in far things will be tough when we leave Spain, for France, then Italy. Switzerland, France and back to the U.K.

     Fuel is only 3/4 a gallon here, but 6/- in Italy.  Had a shopping spree (£5, taken from our 'reserve' of travellers cheques), today in Barcelona.  Camped out of town, took the train in (it's a huge city sprawled along miles of coast) bought Pennie a fab. leather shoulder/hand bag, me a pair of brogues (Spanish style, but very well made, cost all of £2/10/-).  I'm filling up all available space, hope it's all in one piece when you open this.  Julia's birthday came at a time when I fear we were so engrossed in our touring we didn't send greetings --- bur Many Happy Returns, Doodie, love from us both --- hope your skirt is nice.

      Big stock-up of cheap Spanish comestibles tomorrow in Gerona, before crossing to France also fuel and oil for the Taxi, at nearly half the cost.  All's well, love to all , yours impoverishedly David and Pennie  XXX

Letter - David's Mother - France/Spain - 4.1.1969

23, Cours Barbey, Bordeaux. France - Samdi 4 Janvier 1969

Chere Maman,

     We are hurtling south, through France, staying in Youth Hostels so far, which is the only cheap thing in France.  A franc is about 1/9, and buys about 2 pints of fuel, or a loaf of long thin bread, etc.  But the people are quite outstandingly well-dressed in the towns, the shops are absolute palaces of charm and good taste.  The confectionery is beautifully packed the delicatessens (charcuteries) are mouthwatering spectacles of prepared meats, sausages, hams, cheeses, etc.

     We've had a lot of driving, 175 miles yesterday, 207 today, and we enter Spain tomorrow, when the strain on the budget will ease.  So far we've eaten off our U.K. tinned food store, except for lunch, of bread and cheese, sardines, etc.  But in Spain we expect to eat out lavishly and cheaply and stay in 'Pensiones', (guest houses)  instead of segregated Youth Hostels.

     The taxi attracts astonished stares and much comment wherever we go:  an Australian saw us in a street in Bordeaux this evening: hailed us and turned out to be a Singer, resident in Paris 15 years and married to a French women.  We met two Kiwis at the Tours Hostel last night, so we haven't been entirely on a French speaking diet.

     We entered the 'Vignoble Bordeaux' this afternoon, the road was lined with 'free tasting' stands, selling wines.  I spent 4 fr. on a bottle of Bordeaux red, which tasted fine.

16 Calle del Alfonso XV, Burgos, Spain.  Monday 6th January 1969

     Progressed from Bordeaux to San Sebastian to Burgos, in Castile.  We found the Youth Hostel in San Sebastian after an hour of hunting, enquiring etc.  then went into town about 4pm.  It was D.E.A.D., and very dusty, and incidentally has trolley-buses, old British ones, R.H.D., in incredible states of disrepair.  Then, about 6pm, people began to pour into town, for what we saw to be a massive procession, not for any particular reason, but the crowds packed the streets, yelled and cheered, traffic came to a standstill.  We found a restaurant which was fabulous, beautiful linen cloths and napkins, a wooden wine jug, bound in copper, with a copper pourer, a dark mysterious Spanish waitress and magnificent Spanish food uuummmmm.  All for 150 pesetas each (70 pesetas = $US.1)  But today we had a 3 course lunch, including wine and bread for 65 pesetas, in an ordinary (fairly dingy) town cafe.  The food was delicious though, even so I find it value if only for the beautiful wine.

     Tonight we have a 'Pensione', guest house room, at 100 pesetas (no hot water) still not bad, a room at 6/- each.  Fuel is the cheapest in Western Europe, about 3/6 a gallon.

     So with the news that France and Spain are fabulous, I'll send this off.
               Much love to you and Dad & A.G. & Doodie, Dave and Pen.

P.S.  We've had with us all day a young, 27 year old, Malaysian boy called Bonny, who is sharing fuel costs until Madrid, between us we can scratch ourselves in French, German, Spanish, Chinese, Malay and English.  We used all of the first three to obtain rooms tonight.  My Spanish, begun yesterday, extends okay most places, but not to haggling over rooms and prices, so we did it in German through a Spanish chap in the place.  Such hilarity.  Now to dinner.  Love D xx

Below is 23, Cours Barbey, Bordeaux, looks as though a new Youth Hostel has replaced the one we stayed in.